Well it’s not as soon as I had hoped, but another update nonetheless. I mean I’m less than a month behind at this point, cut me some slack. I have resolved to write more frequently in general, so perhaps that will motivate me to catch up on this forum as well as others. I did write a massive amount of postcards the other day, which I was very proud of. But now I am dreading paying for all the postage. Fucking economy. Let us travel back to Budapest before I start being depressed about how much the dollar sucks….
17/4/08
After arriving back in Amsterdam from Luxembourg, I had a mere two days of rest before heading off on another adventure. We got back to Amsterdam Monday afternoon, and by Wednesday afternoon, I had done laundry, repacked, and made it onto the bus for Budapest, Hungary to visit Natalie. Although at that point I felt fairly confident in my bus traveling abilities, this was my first trip alone on a bus, and the longest. About 22 hours to be exact. Yes, I was on the same bus with hordes of smelly, cranky, chattering foreigners for 22 hours. After a while I became paranoid and convinced that everyone on the bus was talking about how I was an ignorant American who took up too much space. There’s just something about having a foreign language spoken around you consistently for long periods of time that drives you crazy when you have no one to talk to. The trip to Budapest wasn’t so bad though, except that I got no sleep whatsoever. I arrived in Budapest, exhausted and disoriented, but excited to see a familiar face. After a brief wait in the train station, Natalie arrived and set off on the metro toward her apartment. It was amazing to see someone from home. I haven’t really been terribly homesick here, but there is great comfort in the familiar. We got caught up on each other’s recent travels (she went on a fabulous cruise!) until we reached her amazing apartment. I am perfectly happy with our living arrangements here, but I was very jealous of the size and grandeur of Natalie’s apartment. It was gorgeous. Unfortunately, Natalie had several midterms that day, so we just had time to grab some lunch before she went to study and suffer through a math exam. Gross. We had the most delicious Hungarian snack thing, I can’t remember what it’s called. It’s basically fried bread with sour cream, cheese, and garlic on top. Amazing. We devoured our snack and then Natalie disappeared into math world, and I set off into Budapest, map in hand, determined to see some of the city before I collapsed from fatigue. I planned out a route that took me through a nearby park and then down one of the main streets in Budapest. The park was pleasant, and I sat down to enjoy the sunshine and warmth for a moment. Then I wandered back out into the city, noticing a large square with lots of statutes, which I later discovered was called Hero’s Square. I walked down the street for a long while, just drinking in the city. Budapest was distinct from all the other cities I have visited so far. It definitely had an Eastern European feel, which I can’t really describe, and that was nice for a change. The buildings were extremely varied, but all interesting architecturally. I don’t really remember much else from that first afternoon because I was pretty tired. I made it back to Natalie’s apartment without getting lost, and took a quick nap until she got back from class in the late afternoon.
After rising from my much needed nap, Natalie suggested we meet up with her roommate and a friend she had visiting to go an art museum and then to the baths. The art museum bit didn’t really pan out, as it was about to close as we arrived there. We decided to walk around the nearby park that I visited earlier in the day until Natalie’s roommate and her friend were ready to go to the baths. When it was time to move in the direction of the nearby baths, we got ourselves a bit lost in the park wandering around in circles. Natalie kept freaking out and apologizing, but I didn’t mind, I had faith in her navigating skills. She eventually directed us to the baths we were searching for (like I knew she would) and we went inside to get changed. The baths were a really cool and eye opening experience. Lots of naked middle-aged women yelling at me in Hungarian, and employees pointing all over to direct us to the correct changing area. We finally figured things out, got our suits on, and ventured outside to the outdoor baths. It was nice weather out, but not exactly ideal for bathing suits, so we jumped in the first pool we saw. Eventually we found Natalie’s friend and moved into the warmer of the two outdoor pools. It was a very relaxing atmosphere. Steam was rising off of the warm bath and the hot water soothed my tired body and mind. Natalie had a nice time talking about study abroad experiences and reminiscing about Wooster and Miller Manor. Sigh. Just thinking about those blissful days of freshman year makes me miss everyone at Wooster ten times more. Anyway, after relaxing in the baths for a good while, we dried off, cleaned up, and decided to grab some dinner at a Communist pizza joint, whose name escapes me. It was something to do with Marx…come up with something clever yourself, I know you’re capable. Beer and communist pizza: a wholesome meal for any political theorist. Natalie and I ordered two small pizzas to share, both of which were very unique and involved sour cream. Damn Europeans and their dairy products. The décor in the restaurant was what you would expect, lots of red and some cool propaganda. It was amusing to see a country embrace its communist past in such a capitalist fashion. The pizzas tasted grand and we traveled back to Natalie’s apartment with full bellies. I crashed into my bed, and slept like a rock.
The next morning I slept in a bit since Natalie was taking her final midterm exam of the week. When she came back we decided to visit the giant market hall in Budapest to grab some lunch and do some touristy shopping. We didn’t find any lunch there, and ended up eating at this sort of sketchy restaurant where the waiter brought our food in from outside. Neither of us got sick, so I didn’t question it after that. After lunch we went back into the market to look around at the wares the Hungarians were pushing. There were lots of traditional Hungarian trinkets and many pretty things to look at. One impression I had of Hungary, is that they are very much into traditional things, but not necessarily in a conservative sense. They just embrace their traditional dress and crafty things to sell to the tourists, and also have lots of traditionally Hungarian foods, which is very different from my impression of the Dutch. Natalie said they also are traditional with their language, in that they formulate Hungarian words for new items, like they have their own word for computer, instead of just using ‘computer’ like most other languages I’ve encountered. I found it interesting. After exploring the market, we proceeded into another touristy area, where I justified buying myself a few things because I’ll only be in Budapest once of course. One of their trademark tourist items is the ‘secret box’. Anytime you walk into a place that sells these boxes and look remotely interested in buying one, a salesperson will rush over and expediently show you how to open this magical container. It was intriguing, and now I regret not buying one for my Mom, since she loves boxes. But, in my defense, Hungary is not on the Euro, so the entire trip I was sort of uncertain about how much I was actually spending on things, so I tried not to go too crazy with purchases. Natalie had told me that it was somewhere around 160 forint to a U.S. dollar, but I’ve started thinking in Euros, so that was just an overwhelming number of conversions, and I haven’t done math since I started college, so I quit trying to guesstimate. I knew the conversion rate was in my favor, but when you see prices like 3000 forints, it can get confusing really fast. Anyway, we did some shopping, walked around a bit, then I think we met up with Natalie’s roommate and friend for a night cruise on the Danube. There might have been something else in between there, but I don’t recall what. The night cruise was gorgeous and hilarious because the video commentary provided was really ridiculous and included the personification of several different bridges and other monuments. We saw the castle all lit up, as well as the magnificent parliament building, and we got complimentary drinks. Always a bonus. After taking obscene amounts of pictures on the Danube, we walked back to Natalie’s apartment to prepare for the space-themed party planned for that evening.
The party was really fun, I drank a lot (too much? No, never! [mom]), and chatted with some of Natalie’s friends and people in her program. It’s interesting to see how other study abroad programs turn out. Our program definitely broke up into identifiable groups, but Natalie’s program still had some smaller groups, but was more cohesive overall than ours has been thus far. It’s very interesting how people interact in these situations. The ended with dancing at a nearby club, like any good night should. We drifted off to sleep with another day of exploring ahead of us.
The next morning we didn’t let our late night stop us from seeing more of the city. We crossed the city and climbed up Gellert Hill to get a great view of the city. It was nice to be a city with a varied landscape. Budapest looked really beautiful and interesting from the top of the hill. We took our time climbing though, it was pretty steep and we were still worn out from the night before. It was nice to just walk around and look at pretty things. We took our time and sat at the top of the hill just looking down at city. Then we walked over to the nearby castle that I had already taken lots of pictures of on the cruise. No matter how many you’ve seen, castles are always magnificent. We then decided to walk back down into the city to grab something to eat, and then after some discussion, Natalie and I planned on going to the House of Terror museum. We ate anther type of traditional Hungarian food, though I can’t recall the name. It was sort of crepe-like, similar to the Dutch pancakes here. I’m learning that most cultures have some sort of similar ‘traditional dish’ of this type. I got one filled with mushrooms, and Natalie and I shared a dessert (I think it was chocolate) filled delight. Cheap and delicious.
After our snack, Natalie and I ventured off to find the House of Terror. She knew the street address, but it took us a little while to find the actual building because it was on a bustling street, and the building wasn’t marked very clearly. The entire experience of visiting the House of Terror was one of the most eerie and moving experiences of my life. First of all, there was a bouncer of sorts at the door to the museum, which is probably one of the reasons why we couldn’t find it at first. This giant man dressed in a black suit opened the door to the museum for us and we walked in to buy our tickets. Inside the building the lighting was very low and the walls were dark and cold. Maybe I should give a little background on the House of Terror before I go much further in my description of the place. The House of Terror served as the headquarters for the Hungarian Nazis from 1944-1945, and was subsequently used by the Communist regime that took over the country after WWII. Both occupants used the location as a place to detain, question, and torture their enemies, mostly Jews and political dissidents. The museum documented the history of Hungary through WWII and the Communist regime that followed, and was meant to be a memorial to all those who suffered from the oppression of this time period. The atmosphere of the museum was much like a haunted house; the lights would dim in and out, music drifted eerily from the walls, and the rooms were filled with screens showing black and white videos of interviews with former prisoners. I learned a lot of history and was very moved by the museum as a whole. The basement was the most striking part though. You begin the tour of the museum on the first floor, then move up to the top floor, and then take an elevator down to the basement where the tour ends. The elevator ride down to the basement was frightening. I’m not positive that it was intentionally so, but most of the museum seemed designed to shock you to some degree. Natalie and I squeezed into the elevator with about five other people. As the doors shut, a video started to play, telling us about what we were about to see. The basement of the House of Terror was used to house the prisoners and was where most of the torturing took place. The video detailed how prisoners were executed using a gallows, and the different torture techniques used. The video lasted much longer than the elevator ride, but the doors didn’t open and the small space became extremely hot and stuffy. All of us were starting to sweat and become anxious in the cramped space as we were forced to watch the creepy video about torture. A very effective technique indeed. It’s strange that I knew I was perfectly safe and that the whole situation was probably designed to freak me out, but I definitely submitted to the feeling of terror they were attempting to induce.
When the doors finally opened, we all spilled out into the cool of the basement. The first rooms down there were all the holding cells for prisoners. Each was crafted for a different sort of torture. One was partially filled with water, so the prisoner could never be completely dry, another was designed so that the prisoner had to constantly be standing straight up with a lit light bulb directly in front of their face, others were so small that the prisoner could never full stretch out, lie down or stand up completely. I wandered in and out of the rooms trying to grasp what sort of awful things might have happened there. There was a moment when I was standing in one of the cells alone when, for just an instant, I physically felt like history had reached through time and grabbed me. It’s a tough feeling to describe and it sounds silly when I try. For a split second I had the tiniest inkling of what some of those prisoners had endured. It was a very moving experience and I’m really glad Natalie and I decided to check it out. The experience ended on a mysterious note when the door to the museum opened for us as we were leaving. I swear. It was so creepy.
After that Natalie and I met up with some of her friends for dinner at a restaurant near her apartment. By this time we were pretty exhausted, but resolved to regroup and go hang out with some of her friends for a while. That plan was short-lived and we decided to head back to her place and watch a movie. I think we made it about ten minutes in before we fell asleep. The next morning we got up and I tried to pack up most of my stuff since it was my last day there. Then we went to the synagogue just down the street to take a tour. Natalie had never been there, but she walked by it almost everyday and was eager to see what it was like inside, as was I. We decided to get a guided tour since it was cheaper anyway and our group moved out of the sunny morning light into the synagogue. The synagogue itself was extremely beautiful (there are lots of pictures of it on facebook if you haven’t seen them already). It was built by a Catholic architect, which I found both strange and interesting. It definitely had the feel of a Catholic church, with lots of gold trim and other colorful decorations. This particular synagogue was the largest in Hungary and had luckily survived WWII, although it had to be extensively renovated because the Germans had used it as a radio tower and consequently it endured lots of bombing during the war. The synagogue is located inside the area that was the Jewish ghetto during WWII, and Natalie actually lives within that same area that was once a ghetto. After looking around inside the synagogue, the tour moved outdoors to the memorial garden and cemetery. Evidently there is a Jewish belief that the living and the dead should remain separate and so they don’t usually have cemeteries near synagogues. However, during WWII the Germans used the area around the synagogue as a mass grave so many Jews were buried there. After the war, most of the families of those buried there had the bodies moved to another location for a proper burial, but some of the families thought it appropriate to leave their loved ones there as a reminder of what had happened during the war. The memorial garden was really beautiful and interesting too. There were several memorials to the Jews that had died during the war and to other people who had aided Jews escape or survive during the war. I really learned a lot about the history of Jews in Budapest and it was my first time visiting a synagogue. I feel like my whole visit to Budapest was very educational and intellectually stimulating, which is always a positive thing. The weight and guilt of WWII is much more evident everywhere in Europe than it is in the United States. It has been interesting to see especially here in the Netherlands how the guilt from the war has affected recent policy decisions about other minority and religious groups. Many Jews lived in the Netherlands prior to the war because it is such a tolerant country, but a very small portion of the Dutch Jews survived the war and it is evident from the many memorials around the city that that tragedy is still a large part of the Dutch identity. Maybe it’s just my experience, but I don’t think that is the case for Americans, at least not to the same extent. Or it could just be that our generation is removed from those events and that we are focusing more on the current problems. I don’t know….
After returning from the synagogue, Natalie and I ate some lunch and then set off for the bus station. She kindly waited with me until it was time to resign myself to my second 22 hour bus ride and we said goodbye knowing that we would see each other again soon when she came to visit Amsterdam. It was really great to hang out with Natalie and see a familiar face from home. It was also kind of surreal. Unfortunately, Natalie had given me her cold while I was visiting her so the bus ride back was guaranteed to be unpleasant. It was both better and worse than the bus ride there. I slept at least a little because I luckily found some drowsy cold medication in my backpack, but I was also coughing and sneezing the whole time and annoying the other passengers. But I finally arrived back in Amsterdam. It is always amazing to come back here. I think I came straight back to my apartment, took a shower, and got into bed. All in all, a wonderful, but exhausting trip.